- make a 3D design suitable for 3D printing
- generate the GCode of the model
- 3D print the 3D model
- create a page to document your progress of week 4,what did you do, in which order, what are your experiences (problems, solutions, etc.), and add the download of the 3D model you printed to it
- Cura
This zip-File include the .stl File, the .f3d File and the .step File of my holder
This zip.File include the .curaprofile File of
my Profile
My PS4 controllers are currently lying around in a drawer. This week I'm designing a stand for them so I can put them next to my TV and print it on a 3D printer.
I drew the stand using Fusion360. I explained how to do this in week 2. I downloaded the controller from Grabcad.com.
The final Prototyp with a Dualshock 4 Controller
The final Prototyp without a Dualshock 4 Controller
To be able to print a body or a component, it must be available as a .stl file.
By clicking on "Create" and then "3D Print" Fusion360 opens the export menu.
After a click on "okay" the file can be saved.
Export the Prototyp as an .stl-File
A .stl file describes the surface of a 3D body using many triangles.
A slicer converts this file into machine code. It considers parameters like temperature, thickness of the
filament and other values.
I will go into a few more parameters later.
Snippt of a .gcode file
Loading the stl into cura
Rotating the object
The first thing I did was to see which Nozzel was built into the printer. The bigger the hole is, the more material the printer can extrude. The Ultimaker 2 Extended had a 0.8 Nozzel built in.
Without adjustments the printing takes about 8 hours at the beginning. Since this was too much for me and I did not want to occupy the printer unnecessarily long, I played with some settings. First I changed the layerheight from 0.15mm to 0.2mm. The higher the layerheight, the more visible the individual lines are and the less detail the object has. Since I don't attach so much importance to the optical appearance of such an object, I'm well advised to use 0.2mm. Since a controller does not weigh so much, I have adjusted the thickness of the outer walls (wall thickness) to 1.5mm and the infill (filling of the object) to 15%. This way the printer has to print less material and the printing time is reduced considerably. The speed indicates the maximum print speed. The default setting is 30mm/s but an Ultimaker still delivers very good results even at 60mm/s. Since there are cavities in the part, I have to set "Support" in certain places. If I activate this option, Cura automatically sets the required support. So that the component does not come loose during printing, I also have a brim printed. This increases the adhesion of the object to the glass plate. By changing the settings I could reduce the printing time from almost 9 hours to 4 hours and 11 minutes. After a click on the button "Save to file" the file is saved.
You can download my Profile here.
My printing settings Part 1
My printing settings Part 2
My printing settings Part 3
The Fablab has besides several Ultimaker 2 and 2 Extended also several Makerbots, Felix Printer and UP Minis. There are also SLA printers from Formlab. As a special feature there is a printer named BigRep with a print area of 1m*1m*1m. I print my prototype on an Ultimaker 2 Extended with a 0.8 Nozzel using Verbatin's white PLA
Ultimkaer 2 Extended
After I saved the file to an SD card, I could put it in the Ultimaker. After selecting the file, the printer heats up its nozzel and print bed. Once this process is complete, the printer starts printing.
Printing the brim
While printing
While printing
While printing
While printing
My Prototyp
My Prototyp
The pressure bed was not uneven at the back. The first pressure failed because the extruder could not extrude enough material in the rear part. Since I didn't find a map to calibrate, I simply moved the model in the slicer and sliced it again.
Not enough extrusion